New York Fashion Week
Spring/Summer 2011-12
The second installment to my favourite collections of NYFW 2011.
Jenny Packham
No season of Gossip Girl is complete without a Jenny Packham dress. And it's easy to see why. The British designer's Spring 2012 collection melds sequins into floaty chiffon with a result that is graceful and feminine. Sheer fluid gowns were presented in delectable shades of lemon, mint, aqua, orange and cherry. There was a focus on asymmetrical tops and hems, soft pleating, as well as low v-necks and floral embellishments. Models were styled with cross-ankle strap sandals, crimson lips and pin straight hair.
Badgely Mischka
The imaginative duo at Badgely Mischka set a florid and sugary tone for Spring 2012. What I love most about this collection is the vivid use of texture. Sculptural gowns were enriched with opulent fabrics like shantung, brocade, beaded chiffon and organza. Candy-store colours glazed the runway in fuchsia, purple, citrons and turquoise, then mellowed into softer shades. Satin bow belts clinched-in waists, while flounces and frilled hems added weight to the saccharine dresses. A delightful collection for anyone with a sweet tooth.
Amidst all the chaos of elaborate and overstated collections, I found tranquility in the designs of Elie Tahari. He looked to ancient Egypt as an inspiration, which is visible through the placid colour scheme. Desert sandy beiges and stone, sunset oranges, blue oases and Cleopatra-tinged gold mesh. Work-wear is given a glamourous edge with sheer cuffed harem pants, double-breasted suit blazers, silky shirt dresses and flared pants. Metallic gold belts were an essential accessory, as well as gorgeous strappy gladiator sandals. This is an effortless range that truly defines casual elegance.
Marchesa
Marchesa does tulle unlike any other. Georgina Chapman and Karen Craig's signature fairytale touch was seen throughout their Spring 2012 collection. The pair were inspired by the beauty of the sea, more specifically, the 1876 painting of Russian artist Ilya Repin, called Sadko in the Underwater Kingdom. Voluminous gowns were sumptuously enveloped in tulle and chiffon, shaded in lavender grey, pearl white and caramel nudes. A fair amount of fringing and feathers also made its way down the runway. Although completely impractical, I love how this collection provides a magical kind of escapism.
Another ornate and impressive collection by Mumbai-born designer Naeem Khan. Each outfit makes a bold statement; whether it's with metallic stripes, bright colour, floral prints, feathered hems or shimmering beadwork. Naeem's wife, Ranjana designed the exotic pieces of jewellery paired with each outfit. I like how the silhouettes varied from fitted to ballgown to flowing kaftans. Khan presented a glamourous range of gowns that are extravagant without being over the top.
Jill Stuart's Spring reverie for 2012 is a sublime collection of feminine outfits. I love the combination of sorbet shades that harmoniously blend together. Lemonade and lavender, peppermint and peach; It's fresh and unexpected. I haven't seen anything like this in fashion week. There were plenty of shorts and pleated knee-length skirts in this girly-glam collection. Stuart made use of interesting and unusual prints, like palm trees, birds, cherry blossoms and Japanese doll-like designs. Tousled hair and, kohl line eyes and rose-tinted lips completed the doll house experience.
